Following that half-century of pioneering developments, research continued at a relatively slow pace until the amphibious landings in the Second World War emphasized the need for a much better understanding of wave initiation and growth due to winds, the conservative and dissipative transformation mechanisms occurring from the source area to the shoaling, and the breaking processes at the shore. The largely unsuccessful attempt to utilize portable and floating breakwaters in the surprise amphibious landing at Normandy, France, stimulated interest in wave interaction with fixed and floating objects.The problem of quantifying the wave climate, understanding the interaction of waves with structures and/or sediment, and predicting the associated responses of interest underlies almost every problem in coastal and ocean engineering. It is toward this goal that this book is directed. Although the book is intended for use primarily as a text at the advanced undergraduate or first-year graduate level, it is hoped that it will serve also as a reference and will assist one to learn the field through self-study.
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